An Ode to the Lofoten Islands
The mountains and the ocean are two essential living entities. Mountains are something I’ve always known: stable, secure, a foundation. The ocean is something newer: free flowing and unpredictable. The Lofoten Islands are the first place on earth where I’ve experienced the force of both these entities at the same time. It became clear to me that they were an inseparable unit. I can’t fully articulate it, but my trip there felt significant, and I think this convergence was a major reason why.
I felt this magnetizing pull towards the mountains ahead of me when the Lofoten Islands came into sight from the deck of the ferry. They shot out of the ocean with a shocking grandiosity. As our boat pulled into Svolvaer- those massive mountains, as intimidating as they looked- welcomed us with open arms.
I rarely feel such familiarity and nostalgia in a place I’ve never been before. We spent that first night in Svolvaer, and my initial thought as we were lugging our packs to the hostel, was how much the town reminded me of Crested Butte. There was a lively town center by the harbor, tons of colorful cabin-style homes and Rorbu’s (traditional Norwegian fishing cabins), and an undeniable tight-knit community of permanent residents. There’s this towering mountain called Fløya that ascends above and watches over the town.
We rented a car, which was definitely the right move because we got the freedom to explore a huge chunk of the islands. It’s only a 2 hour drive from Svolvaer (the eastern end of the islands) to Å (the western end of the islands).
We chatted with this local woman and her daughter on the ferry and they told us to go to this town called Henningsvaer. It was the so-called “hippest fishing village in Lofoten”, so obviously we had to check it out. When we pulled up, there were young, outdoorsy, cool-looking people everywhere. I mean they were everywhere: sprawled along the rocks of the surrounding mountains, hammocking on the old wooden fishing racks, biking/ walking/swimming around. It was the Norwegian hipster mecca. I was in heaven.
It wasn’t long before we realized there was a festival happening there that weekend. We walked around for a bit to take some more of it in. The town had the cutest cafes & restaurants and the dopest art scene. It was through some of the photography and art in Henningsvaer, that I realized how significant the ski culture is there. Seeing imagery of those massive mountains covered in snow made me jittery. I have to go back in the winter to ski some of those lines & see the Northern Lights. It’s a must.
All this to say, that little town had such a vibrant, lively energy. It just inspired art in every form. It left me feeling charged.
Throughout the rest of the trip we properly explored the islands. It all felt so surreal. In moments, the landscape looks like Tahiti, but then you touch the water and realize you’re in the Arctic Circle. We went to this stunning beach called Uttakleiv. We jumped in the freezing cold water then basked in the sun & made sandwiches- all while flocks of sheep frollicked around us. It all felt very otherworldly. Strange & beautiful.
People were camping everywhere along the islands. There are very few official campsites- it’s all just free, dispersed camping for the most part. You can essentially pitch a tent wherever and work from there. It was such a refreshing concept to see. There’s a trust system in Norway that doesn’t exist in the US. There’s an expectation that everyone respects the land and leaves no trace. So instead of making adults adhere to strict guidelines to ensure they don’t trash natural spaces, there’s this universal confidence that people will be respectful of each other and of the land they reside on. Imagine that.
Along the way, we had a few serendipitous encounters. For one, the people who live there full time are hard-core and that’s a fact. The winters are dark and cold, and you’ve got to have the grit to adapt to such a specific lifestyle that far north. The locals we met felt like true nature folk, and the genuinity of people like that is simply contagious.
I think since it’s such a haul to get out to the Lofoten Islands, it attracts a certain type of person. Someone who’s looking to explore and reconnect. Someone who doesn’t really give a shit if the sun’s out or where they’re sleeping that night. We met these Swedish boys that became instant friends. We jumped in the arctic, played soccer, and chatted with these strangers who were refreshingly open to experience. Their spontaneity is something that’s stuck with me.
We later met this Norwegian brother & sister who had just finished an 8 day backpacking trip across the islands. They started in Svolvaer and ended in Å. They were fresh off the hike with dirt on their faces and a few beers in them already. They grew up in Tromso which is even further north of the Lofoten Islands. We sat and chatted with them for a while and again, connected with and related to them pretty immediately. They were curious, drunk, and hilarious. After hearing about their backpacking experience, it’s become an official bucket list item to go back and do it.
We stopped by Unstad: the surfing mecca in Lofoten. The waves were properly tiny so we decided against renting boards, but still got to see the scene. We went into this cafe that had life changing cinnamon rolls and a magnetizing atmosphere. There were photos of surfers and freeride skiers on the walls that complimented each other flawlessly. The swell is biggest in the winter, so a ski-to-surf day is a realistic endeavor, adding yet another reason to head back there in the winter.
We ended the trip kayaking in Svolvaer which felt nostalgically full circle. It was humbling to look at the mountains from the perspective of the water. The water was crisp and transparent, the reflection of the mountains visible in its ripples.
When I was sitting in that kayak with Ella I was overcome by emotion. I was floating around the fjords with my two best friends, looking up at the absurd landscape ahead of us. I couldn’t help but think of my evolving connection with the ocean, the mountains, and the two people beside me. I was certain that at that moment in time, I was exactly where I was supposed to be.
